How to Start a Chicken Broiler Business

If you've decided to start a small farm business raising chickens for meat, you're probably wondering where to begin. Sure, get some chicks, raise them to slaughtering size, process them or get them processed, and sell them, right? Sounds easy. But organizing your chicken broiler business takes some work. Follow these steps and you'll be off and running - and making money selling delicious, fresh pastured chicken - very soon.

Know the Laws

I think you should begin by investigating your state and local laws around poultry sales. This is going to feed into the next two steps, where you will determine your market and write a business plan.

What do I mean by the laws? Many states require that meat chickens be processed in a USDA-approved facility in order to be legally sold to the public. However, in some states, if your poultry operation is small enough in scale, you can sell whole chickens directly to restaurants. And you may be allowed to sell whole chickens to the public as long as you sell them direct from your farm.

Research the laws that apply to you, because knowing where you'll get the chickens processed and how much that will cost will affect your business plan.

Learn How to Raise Chickens for Meat

If you don't already know, research research research. How will you raise your chickens? On pasture or confined? Learn how to keep baby chicks healthy and raise them to market size without losing too many to illness or predators.

Know Your Market

Figuring out your market is the next step for your new chicken business. Who are your local buyers? Will you sell to consumers directly from your farm (and if so, how will they know where to find you)? Will you sell to restaurants?

Also consider whether you will sell conventional Cornish Rocks, the fast-growing cross that is the large-scale poultry industry standard, or go for an heirloom breed or hybrid specially designed to forage on pasture, like Freedom Rangers. Your market will determine this; are you selling to people who know the difference and care? Birds raised on pasture may take longer to reach market weight, ultimately costing you more money. Will the market support the price per pound you'll need to charge to be profitable?

Write a Business Plan

Identifying your market is part of your business plan, but you'll need more information than just that to create a guide for your business as you move along toward its creation.

Another part of the business plan is making specific, measurable goals. How many broilers will you raise for your first run? What is the market size? What equipment will you need for them: fencing, housing, waterers and feeders?

Also make sure to consider capital. Specifically, how much of it do you have? You'll need to factor in any equipment costs such as construction of a coop. Another cost is the chicks themselves. And you'll need to pay for all the feed they will gobble up at an alarming rate until they reach market size. You may need medications or supplements as well.

Raise Your Chicks

Once you have your chicks, you can get underway. Baby chicks need some special care - the temperature must be kept constantly warm, just like if their mother hen was there to keep them warm. And you'll need to prevent early problems like pasting up, and monitor for illnesses such as coccidiosis.

Process the Birds

Depending on the laws, your markets, and your comfort level, you may decide to slaughter and process the chickens on the farm. I've done it both ways: myself and taking them to a slaughterhouse. While the slaughterhouse is far easier, it's also incredibly expensive, and adds a lot to the cost of each bird.

There are also mobile slaughterhouses in some areas - a trailer or "mobile poultry processing unit" comes to your farm and processes the birds on-farm for you. Some of these have a minimum number of birds, so be sure to consider that when making your business plan.

Sell the Chickens

Your birds are processed, packaged, and in the freezer - so now it's time to put that marketing plan into action and sell them. Whether you're bringing them to the farmers market, selling to restaurants, or direct to consumers, you'll need to refer back to your business plan to sell the chickens you've so carefully raised.

Reassess and Reevaluate

Like with any business, you should regularly reassess and reevaluate to see if things are still working. Did your marketing plan work or does it need to be retooled? Do you want to raise more birds next time or fewer? Did you find on-farm processing to work well, or will you hire out that job next time?

I wish you luck in your chicken broiler business and all your small farm endeavors. Enjoy!

Peach varieties for home garden

There are more than 2,000 varieties of peaches. That’s a lot to choose from.

There is no better way to pick a peach than taste testing peaches at your local farm market. There is a favorite peach taste for everybody.

Peach varieties for home garden are:

Arctic Supreme: arge peach with red-over cream skin; white flesh with great flavor. Considered on of the best; clingstone. Midseason harvest.

August Pride: large, round peach with red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh with good texture and flavor; freestone from California. Midseason harvest.

Babcock: small to medium sized fruit with fuzzless blushed skin; white flesh is tender, juicy, and tangy-sweet; semi-freestone from California. Early harvest.

Baby Crawford: small fruit with slightly blushed golden orange skin; yellow flesh with exceptional flavor; freestone. Midseason harvest.

Belle of Georgia: large peach with red over creamy white skin; firm, white flesh; freestone from Georgia. Late harvest.

Bonanza II: arge peach with attractive red and yellow skin; deep yellow to orange flesh with good flesh and melting texture, highly aromatic; freestone from California. Genetic dwarf tree. Midseason harvest.

Bonita: medium to large peach with light yellow skin that has a deep red blush; firm, yellow flesh with good flavor; freestone from California. Midseason harvest.

Cardinal: medium fruit with bright red over yellow skin; flesh is yellow, firm with a melting texture; freestone from Georgia. Early midseason harvest.

Cresthaven: medium to large peach with golden skin overlaid with red; firm, yellow flesh is juicy and resists browning; freestone from Michigan. Late harvest.

Dessert Gold: medium, round fruit with red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh; semi-clingstone from California. Early midseason harvest.

Dixi Red: medium sized peach with red skin and light fuzz; colors before it matures; firm, yellow flesh with moderately good flavor; semi-freestone from Georgia. Early midseason harvest.

Donut (Stark Saturn): medium-size peach shaped like a donut with a sunken middle; white skin with red blush; white flesh is mildly sweet; freestone. Early harvest.

Earlihale: medium to large fruit with mostly dark red skin; firm, yellow flesh has good flavor; freestone from Maryland. Midseason harvest.

Early Amber: medium peach with dark red-blushed yellow skin; orange-yellow, medium-firm flesh; freestone from Florida. Early harvest.

Early Elberta (Gleason): large fruit with slightly red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh; freestone from Utah. Midseason harvest.

Elberta: large peach with blushed-red deep golden skin; yellow, slightly bitter flesh; freestone from Georgia. Midseason harvest.

El Dorado: medium-size peach with red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh is rich flavored; freestone. Tree is genetic dwarf. Early harvest.

Empress: large peach with pink to red skin; sweet, juicy flesh; from California. Tree is genetic dwarf. Late harvest.

Eva’s Pride: medium to large peach with yellow skin; yellow flesh is has a fine flavor; freestone. Early harvest.

Fairhaven: medium fruit with red-cheeked and dotted red yellow skin; firm, yellow, juicy flesh with good flavor; freestone from Michigan. Midseason harvest.

Fairtime: large peach with red-blushed skin; firm, yellow flesh with smooth, melting texture and good flavor; freestone from California. Late harvest.

Fantastic Elberta: large peach with brightly blushed-red deep golden skin; yellow, slightly bitter flesh; freestone from California. Midseason harvest.

Fay Elberta (Gold Medal): large peach with brightly blushed-red deep golden skin; yellow, slightly bitter flesh; freestone from California. Midseason to late harvest.

Flavorcrest: large round peach with red-blush over yellow skin; firm, yellow flesh has excellent flavor and fine texture; from California. Midseason harvest.

Floridaprince: medium to large peach with red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh is good quality; semi-freestone from Florida. Very early harvest.

Fortyniner: large peach with bright-red blushed yellow skin; yellow, fine-texture flesh; freestone from California. Early midseason harvest.

Frost: medium-size fruit with slight red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh with tangy flavor; freestone. Midseason to late harvest.

Garden Gold: large fruit with yellow skin and slight red blush; flesh is yellow with red near pit; from California. Tree is genetic dwarf. Late harvest.

Gold Dust: small to medium fruit with mottled and streaked red sin; yellow flesh is great quality; freestone from California. Early harvest.

Golden Gem: large fruit with yellow skin; yellow flesh with red pit cavity; firm flesh has excellent flavor; from California. Tree is genetic dwarf. Early harvest.

Golden Glory: very large fruit with golden skin that is red blushed; flesh is yellow, juicy and good flavored; from California. Tree is genetic dwarf. Late harvest.

Golden Jubilee: medium to large peach with mottled bright red skin; yellow flesh is soft with melting texture and good quality; freestone from California. Midseason harvest.

Halehaven: medium to large fruit that is partially red over greenish yellow skin; yellow, juicy, flavorful flesh; freestone from Michigan. Midseason harvest.

Halford: large fruit with yellow skin; yellow flesh with non-melting texture; clingstone from California; Late harvest.

Halloween: large fruit with red-blushed yellow skin; firm, yellow flesh; freestone from California. Late harvest–about Halloween.

J.H. Hale: very large peach with yellow skin blushed with red and little fuzz; yellow flesh with good flavor and aroma; freestone from Connecticut. Midseaon to late harvest.

Halehaven: medium to large peach with red skin; firm, yellow flesh is juicy and good flavored; freestone. Midseason harvest.

Harken: large fruit with yellow skin and red blush; yellow flesh is very sweet; freestone. Midseason harvest.

Honey Babe: small to medium peach with yellow skin and red blush; yellow sweet flavored flesh; freestone. Tree is genetic dwarf. Midseason harvest.

Indian Blood Cling (Indian Cling): medium-size fruit with red skin; yellow flesh is streaked with red and richly flavored; good for preserves; clingstone. Late harvest.

Indian Free: large peach with greenish white skin and red blush; yellow flesh is red-tinged with deep red pit; rich and aromatic when ripe; freestone. Late midseason harvest.

July Elberta (Kim Elberta): medium round fruit with dull red streaks over greenish yellow skin. Yellow fruit is firm, fine grained and very good flavor. Small pit. Good fresh or canned. Developed by Luther Burbank. Freestone from California. Midseason harvest.

Loring: large, round peach with attractive red-blushed skin. Yellow, firm and melting flesh with medium texture, moderately juicy with excellent flavor. Soft when canned or frozen; freestone from Missouri. Midseason harvest.

Madison: medium fruit with bright red over orange skin; orange-yellow flesh that is bright red near pit; firm, fine textured with rich flavor; non-stringy, non-browning flesh use fresh, frozen or canned; freestone from Virginia. Late harvest.

May Pride: large peach with red skin; yellow flesh is sweet with a slight tang; freestone. Early harvest.

Melba: large fruit with pale yellow skin; white flesh is sweet, juicy with honey flavor; freestone from Texas. Midseason harvest.

Midpride: medium to large peach with red-blushed yellow skin; firm flesh has a distinctive orange flavor; good for canning; freestone from California. Midseason harvest.

Nectar: medium-large fruit with pink to red blush; white flesh is sweet, juicy, and aromatic and excellent flavor; freestone from California. Midseason harvest.

New Haven: large peach with red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh good quality; freestone. Midseason to late harvest.

O’Henry: large fruit with red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh is streaked red and has fine flavor; freestone. Midseason harvest.

Orange Cling (Miller Cling): large fruit with red-blushed skin; deep yellow flesh has firm texture, good for canning; clingstone from California. Midseason to late harvest.

Pix Zee: large peach with red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh has good flavor; freestone. Tree is genetic dwarf. Early to midseason harvest.

Polly: medium peach with red-blush white skin; white flesh is juicy and aromatic; freestone from Iowa. Midseason harvest.

Q 1-8: medium size peach with yellow skin and red blush; white flesh is sweet and flavorful; semi-freestone. Early harvest.

Red Baron: large fruit with yellow skin; yellow flesh is sweet and richly flavored; freestone. Midseason to late harvest.

Redhaven: medium fruit with brilliant red over yellow skin; yellow flesh is juicy, sweet, and fine grained; great fresh or canned; semi-freestone from Michigan. Early to midseason harvest.

Redskin: medium peach with yellow skin and abundant deep red blush; yellow, firm somewhat fibrous flesh; use fresh, canned or frozen; freestone from Maryland. Midseason harvest.

Redtop: large peach, skin is almost fully blushed red over yellow; yellow flesh is firm and fine grained; good fresh, canned or frozen; freestone from California. Midseason harvest.

Redwing: medium fruit with red over yellowish skin that colors before maturity; white, firm, juicy, sweet flesh that is lightly perfumed; freestone from California. Early harvest.

Reliance: medium fruit with dark red over yellow skin; firm, yellow flesh with good flavor; freestone from New Hampshire. Early to midseason harvest.

Rio Grande: medium to large peach with red blush over yellow skin; firm, yellow flesh with medium-fine texture that is juicy with delicate flavor; freestone from Florida. Early harvest.

Rio Oso Gem: large fruit with bright red skin; firm, yellow flesh is fine textured great for eating out of hand; freestone from California. Midseason to late harvest.

Roza: large, round peach with medium red blush; very firm, yellow flesh with excellent flavor, good fresh or canned; from Washington. Midseason harvest.

Rubidoux: large fruit with blushed dull red over yellow-red stripes; firm, yellow flesh is moderately juicy with so-so flavor; freestone from California. Midseason to late harvest.

Santa Barbara: large peach with red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh has excellent flavor; use fresh; freestone. Midseason harvest.

Snow Beauty: large red-skinned fruit; white flesh is one of best flavored white-fleshed peaches; freestone. Midseason harvest.

Southern Flame: large peach with red-blushed yellow sin; yellow flesh is firm, crisp, and melting, aromatic; good for eating fresh; from California. Tree is genetic dwarf. Midseason harvest.

Southern Rose: medium-size peach with yellow skin and red blush; yellow flesh is fair flavored; freestone. Tree is genetic dwarf. Midseason harvest.

Southern Sweet: medium fruit with yellow and red skin; yellow flesh has good flavor; from California. Tree is genetic dwarf. Early harvest.

Springtime: small to medium peach with pointed end; blushed skin that colors bright red at maturity; white flesh can be soft and watery; semi-freestone from California. Early harvest.

Strawberry Cling: large peach with creamy white, mottled red skin; flesh is white, juicy, and richly flavored; good for canning; clingstone from California. Late harvest.

Strawberry Free: medium fruit with light, pink-blushed skin; firm, white flesh with excellent flavor; freestone from California. Early harvest.

Summerset: large round fruit with attractive blush over yellow skin; firm, yellow flesh is good for canning or freezing, fair fresh; freestone from California. Late harvest.

Suncrest: large, round fruit with bright red over yellow skin; firm, yellow flesh is melting with good texture; good flavor for fresh use or canning; freestone from California. Midseason harvest.

Sunhaven: medium peach with bright red over gold skin; juicy, fine-grained yellow skin with rich, sweet flavor; semi-clingstone from Michigan. Early to midseason harvest.

Tropi-berta: large fruit with red-blushed skin; yellow flesh is firm with wine-red blush, juicy and good flavored; freestone from California. Midseason to late harvest.

Tropic Snow: medium size peach with red skin; white flesh has excellent flavor; freestone. Early harvest.

Ventura: small oblong peach with yellow with wine-red blush; firm, yellow flesh is slightly acid; freestone from California. Midseason harvest.

Veteran: medium fruit with slightly red-blushed yellow skin; yellow flesh is firm and juicy but coarse grained; freestone from Canada. Midseason harvest.

White Heath Cling: medium to large peach with creamy white skin that is blushed red; white, juicy flesh with distinctive flavor; good for canning; clingstone from Maryland. Late harvest.

HOW TO GROW RUTABAGAS

Step 1: Purchase the Seeds
Rutabagas are often confused with turnips because both are root vegetables, but rutabagas are larger, sweeter and have a less intense flavor. The most popular variety grown in this country is the American purple top.

Step 2: Prepare the Soil
Rutabagas like soil that is loose, fertile and slightly alkaline. If the soil is more acidic, work some lime into the bed a few months before planting. Enrich the soil with compost, turning it into the bed with a rake. Remove any large rocks that might impede the growth of the roots. Finally, add a half cup of 5-10-10 fertilizer for every 20 square feet of garden space.

Step 3: Prepare the Bed
Rutabagas mature into large, round softball-size roots, so they need some room to grow. Use a hoe to create rows of small raised hills, spacing the rows 10" apart. Once formed, be sure not to compact the soil in the hills. Lay down a thick layer of mulch between the rows to hinder the growth of weeds.

Step 4: Plant the Seeds
Time the planting so that the harvest comes at or around the region’s fall frost date. Rutabagas mature in about 80 to 100 days, so use those figures when deciding when to plant. Sow the seeds 1/2" deep in the rows and 2" to 4" apart. Gently press the seeds into the dirt and cover them with soil. Carefully water the seeds and place a garden marker to indicate the crop.

Step 5: Care for Plants
Maintain constant moisture until the seeds germinate. Rutabagas sprout in about a week. A couple of weeks after the plants have sprouted, thin the seedlings down to just one every 8". Add a thick layer of pine mulch around the base of the plants, but do not let the mulch come in contact with the stems. Rutabagas need a steady supply of water to encourage steady growth of the roots. For an added boost, apply a dose of liquid fertilizer to the young plants.

Step 6: Harvest the Rutabagas
Harvest rutabagas when they get slightly larger than a tennis ball. Like most vegetables, they are more tender the smaller they are. Rutabagas are very hardy and will easily survive frosts, especially when well mulched. Many gardeners leave the roots in the ground well into winter, pulling only the plants they want to eat. Others store them buried in sand in a cool, dry and dark place.

How to raise EMU chicks

Raising emus can be a profitable enterprise but should not be undertaken without careful research and consideration. Even though these birds are considered friendly, in certain circumstances they can be quite dangerous due to their large size and considerable strength. Make provisions to successfully raise emu chicks by following some basic procedures, which will ensure an optimal chance for maturity and good health.

Instructions

1. Visit other emu farms. Ask for handling demonstrations and request a hands-on experience with the birds. Many emu farmers share a sense of camaraderie and will be very helpful, however, they may decline your request for physical contact with the birds due to safety and insurance concerns. Make certain you are comfortable with your knowledge of the handling procedures. There is a risk of being injured by these large ratites. Take time to feel at ease in the presence of these birds before undertaking the responsibility of raising this breed.

2. Check with your local farm bureau or local governing board to determine if there are any restrictions or certain requirements in your area for raising emus. Draw up your individual farm plan. Construct an adequate shelter for your emus before purchasing them. Build a fenced area 25 feet wide by 100 feet long for a single pair of emus. Make this out of no-climb horse fencing 5 feet tall or higher. Chain link fencing is more expensive but works very well for the enclosure if your budget allows. Keep in mind that the adult birds are very strong, so the enclosure should be sturdy. The curious nature of these birds may cause them to become injured or entrapped. Check your enclosure for any areas that may create a potential hazard for the emu chicks. Provide a shelter for the birds. Make this shelter adequate for the climate you live in. It should be able to provide warmth in the winter and protection from the elements.

3.Take your new emu chicks to a veterinarian for a complete health check. A doctor that specialises in exotic animals is a good choice. Many farm veterinarians are becoming familiar with these ratites due to the increasing popularity of emu farms. The price of these birds ranges greatly depending on the location they were purchased from, but the cost for a pair is often more than £3,250, so make sure you have a healthy pair to start with. Your veterinarian will also give you a schedule of necessary inoculations and list of possible health concerns. Ask questions regarding symptoms you should watch for in observing the continual health of your chicks.

4. Introduce your young chicks to their new environment. The chicks are normally very curious but may be overwhelmed and exhausted from their trip. Reassure the pair by staying with them until they are comfortable in their new surroundings. Show them to their food and water. Allow them to stay inside the shelter if they want. They will explore their new enclosure when they are ready.

5. Begin handling your baby chicks as soon as you get them. Set up a schedule to physically interact with your birds on a regular basis. Show all family members the correct way to approach and handle them. Spend as much time with them as possible when they are young to create tame adult birds. You can handle emus fairly easily for the first two months of their lives. Be aware of the strength in their legs and make it a practice to stay clear if they begin kicking. Aggression is rare in emus and they will try to avoid hurting you. Most accidents occur when the birds become scared or stressed.

6. Provide plenty of food for the growing chicks. Many emu farmers use a packaged mix made specifically for emus. They will eat between one and three pounds per day, depending on the quality of the mix. Contact your local farm supplier or feed store. They can special order the feed for you if they do not normally stock it. You can supplement the diet with some fruit, berries and vegetables. Emus also graze on grass and ingest bugs and worms. They will also eat up your flower beds and gardens if allowed to do so. Provide adequate water at all times. They can drink up to four gallons on a warm day. Continue to handle the birds as they grow. They enjoy being talked to and handled. It is common for these birds to live to be more than 25 years old.

How to Feed and Water Turkeys

Learning how to feed and water your turkeys properly can help prevent a lot of problems as well as save you money on feed. Although it may seem simple, there are many different choices of types of waterers and feeders, and different ones may be appropriate for specific situations.

Feeding and Watering Turkey Poults

When you first get your turkey poults, you will want to have feeders and waterers set up and filled, ready to go. This way when the poults first arrive, you can dip their beaks in the water and make sure they start eating soon after settling in.

For these baby poults, a one-gallon chick waterer is the best option. Avoid open dishes, buckets or pans of water, because poults may fall in, get chilled and die, or even drown.

The bottom half of an egg carton makes a good first feeder for poults. Another option is red plastic chick feeders that have oval-shaped openings through which the poults can reach the feed.

After a few days, a metal or wooden feeder can be used. Hanging feeders tend to conserve feed. Just make sure that the bottom of the feeder is within comfortable reach of the turkey poults' beaks. Avoid open pails of feed as well, because besides spilling it, the poults can all climb in on top of one another, hurting themselves.

Feeding and Watering Turkeys

As the poults grow, you can switch to a five-gallon metal waterer, or a nipple watering system. Make sure your waterer is sturdy and rugged, as large turkeys are quite strong.

For feeding, a large hanging feeder that can hold most of a 50-pound bag of feed is ideal. Some turkey farmers use a range feeder that is a trough-style. In either case, ensure that the edge of the feeder is at the level of the turkeys' backs so that they can reach the feed easily, but don't waste too much on the floor.

Once they're on pasture, you will need to make sure the turkeys have access to coarse sand or fine gravel - the grit that they need to digest their food. Most likely they can find this right on the ground mixed with the soil.

Beekeeping Tasks by Season

Beekeeping tasks can be divided by season. Checking on your bees frequently is a good idea, but can be overdone: you don't want to disrupt their hive building and daily activities too much.

Spring Tasks

Spring is definitely the time to get new bees and start a hive! Read up in late winter on beekeeping, plan your hive, buy or build it, and start going to those local beekeeping clubs.

Start a new hive.

Feed the bees if necessary.

Harvest honey from an established hive: when flowers are blooming, harvest any honeycomb not used over the winter.

Complete any needed miscellaneous tasks: take care of any health issues, and do anything else needed: requeen, add room, etc.

Summer Tasks

During the summer your bees will basically take care of themselves - you just check up on them and head off any problems before they balloon into big issues.

Enjoy watching the bees as they work: building comb and brooding comb, bringing nectar back to the hive, etc.

Make sure combs are hanging straight if you're using foundationless or top bar methods.

Harvest honey.

Autumn Tasks

Now it's peak honey collection time, and also time for making sure your bees are prepared for winter.

Harvest honey, but make sure to leave enough for the bees for food for winter.

Reduce the hive entrance, put on mouseguards, ensure adequate ventilation. Complete any treatments for diseases and pests.

Winter Tasks

Before winter, you'll help your bee colony get settled and snug for the long cold spell ahead.

Cover the hive with a jacket - you can use a heavy-duty plastic bag lined with a strip of R19 insulation. Staple along the bottom of the hive. Or use black tar paper.

Make sure all treatments are complete.

Happy New Year